Tag Archives: Richard Varr travel writer

New York City’s 911 Memorial, a Solemn Place

Photo by Richard Varr

Photo by Richard Varr

I hadn’t been back to New York’s World Trade Center site in lower Manhattan for more than 10 years when it was – sad to say – still a hole in the ground, and well before the 911 Memorial was completed. Although it bothers me deeply to think about that tragic day in 2001, I thought it was about time I visit the site once more to see the completed memorial.

Photo by Richard Varr

It didn’t take long to feel the strong sense of sorrow as I walked along the grounds, passing others with hardly a word spoken – an awkward silence is how a local most accurately described it to me. The memorial includes the two pools in the large square footprints where the two towers once stood. Each has 30-foot waterfalls with water further plunging into a deeper center square.

Photo by Richard Varr

The names of the nearly 3,000 victims of that clear September day are inscribed in bronze panels along the perimeters of the two pools. They include not only the workers and first responders who perished in the towers, but also the victims of the Pentagon attack and the four doomed airplanes, including the one that crashed in Shanksville, Pennsylvania. I saw pristine white and deep red roses wedged into some of the engraved names, later learning that victims get a rose on their birthdays.

911 Memorial Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

To one side of the grounds is the 911 Memorial Museum housed in a multi-sided, modern glass building. I just couldn’t bring myself to enter the museum. Like most of us, I watched coverage of the horrific event for three days and simply found it hard to relive it all by seeing the crushed and burned artifacts, including the recovered personal items from many of the victims.

Freedom Tower. Photo by Richard Varr

On a brighter note, I loved standing under the Freedom Tower with its twisting glass sides – a symbol of hope, recovery and resilience. As a native New Yorker, it was uplifting to see. Also on the site is the new World Trade Center Mall opened in 2016, with a sprawling white 160-foot-high “Oculus” design shaped to signify a dove being released.

Mall outer design. “Photo by Richard Varr

And a side note… adjacent to the 911 Memorial site is St. Paul’s Chapel of Trinity Church, dating back to 1766. The church today looks the same as I recall it years ago – seemingly untouched – having survived the devastation of September 11, 2001.

St. Paul’s Chapel. Photo by Richard Varr


Singapore: From Fishing Village to World Port City

Downtown with Fullerton Hotel. Photo by Richard Varr

Raffles Landing. Photo by Richard Varr

National Gallery Singapore. Photo by Richard Varr

When Singapore founder Sir Stamford Raffles of the British East India Company first landed on the small fishing village’s shores in 1819, he probably never imagined that Singapore would be the world port city it is today. In the city center, cross the Singapore River and span more than a century in history. The 19th and early 20th century structures of colonial Singapore – the Old Parliament House, iconic and historic Raffles Hotel, St. Andrew’s Cathedral and Chapel of the Chijmes, for example, sit on the river’s north bank. Cross a bridge to the river’s southern bank and stand under ultra-modern glass and steel office towers.

Photo by Richard Varr

Super trees of Gardens by the Bay. Photo by Richard Varr

Leaving Gardens by the Bay. Photo by Richard Varr

Singapore Botanic Gardens. Photo by Richard Varr

Long before Singapore’s skyscrapers took root, primary rain forests and mangrove swamps stretched across the island nation. Today, that raw environment remains in nature reserves including the Jurong Bird Park with more than 5,000 birds, the Singapore Zoo, Bukit Timah Nature Reserve and the Botanic Gardens. In the city, Gardens by the Bay features a rainforest and waterfall inside one giant dome, and flower and plant gardens in another colossal domed structure. A ring of 16-story-high garden structures that generate solar power and collect rainwater dot the grounds, while a skywalk connects a few of these so-called super trees. The skywalk offers great views of the imposing three towers of the Marina Bay Sands hotel and mall complex.

High in the super trees. Walking along the skywalk, Gardens by the Bay. Photo by Richard Varr

Inside the Cloud Dome, Gardens by the Bay. Photo by Richard Varr

VIDEOS: Waterfalls inside the Cloud Dome at Gardens by the Bay, and the finale act of one of the bird shows at Jurong Bird Park.

Little India. Photo by Richard Varr

Arab Street store. Photo by Richard Varr

Whether haggling in a Chinatown market or stepping into an ornate Buddhist temple, Singapore’s Chinatown and Little India have a feel of the mother countries. Chinatown bustles with eateries and markets in the so-called shophouses, while golden-domed mosques and Buddhist temples topped with colorful figurines of Indian gods embellish the neighborhoods’ ethnic skylines. Arab Street is a must see for those who love to shop in a souk-style setting, with shops selling everything from sarongs and Islamic prayer mats to jewelry and perfume.

Bassorah Mall pedestrian street and Masjid Sultan Mosque, Kampong Glam, Singapore. Photo by Richard Varr

Clarke Quay at night. Photo by Richard Varr

Shophouses in Kampong Glam neighborhood. Photo by Richard Varr

Singapore’s unique shophouses, adorned with pastel hues, large shuttered windows, balconies and ochre roofs, are two- and three-story houses sharing sidewalls like row houses – Singapore style. Typical of the city’s unique early architectural style, they house markets, shops, restaurants, bars and cafes. Shophouses line the

Chinatown with shophouses. Photo by Richard Varr

bustling waterfront streets in both Clarke Quay and Boat Quay. They come in five or so different styles of shophouse architecture ranging from early 19th century traditional design to later art deco and ornate styles.


Outside ION Mall, Orchard Road. Photo by Richard Varr

What might look like a downtown boulevard or a business district with office towers is actually a megalopolis for shopping. Those skyscrapers and large buildings on Orchard Road are actually home to atriums lined with shops, seven-story malls, department stores and specialty and antique shops. The twin towers of Ngee Ann City, for example, house 30 restaurants and more than 120 stores. The Centrepoint has six floors and a basement of household goods, while Paranakan Place is lined with Baroque Chinese shophouse facades.

Photo by Richard Varr



Fullerton Hotel Singapore: An Iconic Landmark

Fullerton Hotel at twilight. Photo by Richard Varr

Singapore has many excellent high-end hotels including the iconic five-star Fullerton Hotel, where I stayed for two nights during my visit. Housed in the neoclassical former Main Post Office and government building dating back to 1928, the Fullerton becomes ablaze in lights at dusk and stands out at the base of the downtown skyline and at the mouth of the Singapore River. It’s an ultra-luxury property with marble interiors, a grand stairwell, Infinity Pool beneath the outer façade’s Doric columns, and with striking cityscape and waterside views.

View from the Fullerton of Marina Bay and the towering Marina Bay Sands complex. Photo by Richard Varr

For a closer look at the hotel’s plush amenities and an ambiance that just makes you feel good about yourself, the below link takes you to my hotel review and photos of the Fullerton recently published by the London Telegraph.


For more information: https://www.fullertonhotels.com/the-fullerton-hotel



The Singapore Musical Box Museum – Home to Colonial Jukeboxes

Musical box with cylinder. Photo by Richard Varr

Singapore’s Thian Hock Keng Temple. Photo by Richard Varr

When visiting Singapore’s Thian Hock Keng Temple, the city’s oldest, I stumbled across a small museum you might not think would be found in Singapore. Housed in a pagoda adjacent to the temple complex is the Singapore Musical Box Museum, opened in 2015.

Singapore Musical Box Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

Inside, 40 or more mostly 19th century wooden musical boxes – a few standing tall like large cabinets or dressers – chime out the distinct melodies created by rotating spiked rolls hitting precisely-tuned teeth of a steel comb, or perforated sheet metal disks using the same concept. Most are European or American made, so the question might be, how did they end up in Singapore? The short answer is because of a yearning the British colony had for music back home.

Wind musical box with cylinders. Photo by Richard Varr

“Today we carry maybe a smartphone or years ago a Walkman everywhere we go to listen to music. Before this, there were no such devices,” explains Naoto Orui, a Japanese collector who founded the museum. “The people coming from England to Singapore had a very boring time here because they had no music for entertainment. They brought pianos, but there were no European musicians. So they brought musical boxes here to listen to folk songs and classical music.”

Photo by Richard Varr

Cylinders with different songs. Photo by Richard Varr

Most of the museum’s boxes, spanning from 1860 to about 1910, come from mostly Switzerland, Germany, England and the U.S. Some have cylinders, some need to be wound, and yet others have the large rounded metal disks with punched-out holes. The simple melodies might run anywhere from 30 seconds up to two minutes or more.

Coin drop “jukebox.” Photo by Richard Varr

Some of the larger, cabinet-sized boxes activate with the drop of a coin. One with several musical “disks” operates like a jukebox of yesteryear with a display of song selections. Once the coin is inserted, mechanisms take one of several two-foot in diameter perforated metal disks up to the player. Selections include Bach/Gounod’s Ave Maria and other classical tunes most likely popular at the time. “These machines were used in restaurants, train stations and on cruise ships,” says museum General Manager Tay Ser Yong, while demonstrating one that both chimes music while hammer mechanisms beat two separate drums within the cabinet. “You have a live band performance with a music box before records were invented.”

The museum also has old gramophones, phonographs and only one box made in Singapore that’s doesn’t play. To hear the music boxes, click on the link below for a short video I shot and edited.


Detroit’s Comeback Fever is Contagious

GM Headquarters, Detroit. Photo by Richard Varr

By Richard Varr  

It’s Saturday morning and Eastern Market is packed with locals and sightseers. I’ve joined tour guide Linda Yellin’s “Feet on the Street Tours” which winds in and around kiosks under open-air sheds packed with fresh produce, spice racks, meats and gooey cheeses. Overhead signs sport such headers as “Grown in Detroit” and “Detroit Food Academy.” “We’re seeing more people from outside the city proper that are interested in coming back, and connecting with the city in ways their parents didn’t,” says Yellin.

Bustling Eastern Market. Photo by Richard Varr

Inside, tasting samples clutter the table tops – crunchy tortilla chips, roasted peanuts and sweet potato pie. And they’re all Detroit made. “Being at this booth, I see people from all over the country and they tell me how great it is to see Detroit on this jar,” exults Jack Corley, a former automotive parts supplier for 25 years who’s now selling locally-owned McClure’s Pickles. “They say isn’t it great that’s happening in the city.”  Outside, street art murals awash in brilliant hues emblazon Market warehouses, one with a caption affirming city pride. “We have been considered many things: a city in decay, a city in distress and without hope,” it reads. “However, we have never given up and we never say die. We are born fighters, we rise from the ashes.”

This theme abuzz at Eastern Market reflects Detroit’s spirited comeback in recent years – a dramatic turnaround from the downtrodden years of auto industry decline, municipal bankruptcy in 2013 and people leaving decaying neighborhoods for the suburbs. “I’ve seen the hard times and I see us coming back,” says vendor Allen Love who pitches his peach and blueberry cobbler pies made from family recipes. “We have regular customers that come back every week,” he says. “We’re closer together and we want to see the city grow.”

Downtown Detroit. Photo by Richard Varr

When visiting, I sensed a rebirth of sorts summed up in rebuilding, new businesses in bustling city core neighborhoods, and what seems to be a burst of renewed energy and pride. “Businesses pop up overnight; it’s crazy,” says tour guide Kim Rusinow with Destination Detroit Group Tours and Services who’s leading us in and around the city center. “There’s no denying we’ve been slammed pretty hard. We have some challenges to overcome, but we are an amazing comeback city.”

Downtown Detroit. Photo by Richard Varr

Alongside the multi-towered General Motors Renaissance Center, our first stop is the Detroit RiverWalk, a 3.5 mile-long walkway with benches, public art, parks and a lighthouse. Shops, cafes and residential units now occupy what was once an industrial base with factories and warehouses.

Comerica Park. Photo by Richard Varr

Skirting the edges of downtown’s 19th and 20th century granite and limestone skyscrapers, and shining steel and glass towers, the Stadium District has marked downtown’s resurgence with new 21st century sports stadiums. Statues of clawing tigers hover over the entrances to Comerica Park, home of the Detroit Tigers baseball team, just across the street from football’s Detroit Lions’ Ford Field. The area’s yet greatest expansion comes with the $1 billion-plus, 50-block redevelopment project known as The District Detroit with its new Little Caesars Arena, home to the Detroit Red Wings hockey team and Pistons basketball.

New businesses have found homes in rejuvenated old city buildings. Driving north on Woodward Avenue, we enter the Midtown District where the original facility of a former jeep factory now houses upscale condos. Detroit-based Shinola, the flagship store for the first watch company making watches out of Switzerland with guaranteed Swiss movement, opened a factory with six workers and now employs about 500, according to Rusinow. “They could have gone anywhere,” she says. “We’re so excited that for their manufacturing they chose Detroit because we hadn’t had any new manufacturing here in a very long time.”

Another example of repurposing is downtown’s recently opened Detroit Foundation Hotel, housed in a former Fire Department administration building and firehouse. The fire commissioner’s former office is now a suite. Doorways that once opened for fire engines now lead to a swanky restaurant and bar hopping with a lively crowd during my Saturday night visit.

Rosa Parks bus in the Henry Ford Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

Historic cars in the Henry Ford Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

Must-See Museums

The metro area’s institutions and museums seem to be better than ever. At the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation, I toured adjacent Greenfield Village with its reconstructed and refurbished historic homes with a ride in an original 1914 Model T Ford. Driver Don Ludwig tells me there are still 200,000 Model T’s still running in the U.S. “People come here to step back in time. Isn’t that what you’re doing right now?” he asks? Greenfield Village has historic buildings including Henry Ford’s birth home and the Wright Brothers home and cycle shop where they worked on their fledgling aircraft.

Model T Fords at Greenfield Village. Photo by Richard Varr

Wright Brothers Bicycle Shop at Greenfield Village. Photo by Richard Varr

The facades of the entrance to the Henry Ford Museum building was modeled after Philadelphia’s Independence Hall. The collection includes prototype and original early 20th century cars, planes, locomotives and more, including the refurbished bus in which civil rights pioneer Rosa Park refused to give up her seat. There are many old Model T’s and former presidents’ cars, including the very ones in which Kennedy was shot (original chassis only) and in which Reagan was driven to the hospital after his gunshot wound.

President Reagan’s limousine. Photo by Richard Varr

Industrial Murals by Diego Rivera. Photo by Richard Varr

Other must-see museums include the Detroit Institute of Arts with is wall-sized Diego Rivera industrial murals in a central atrium. The Motown Museum in two adjacent neighborhood homes offers a close-up look at the small studio where Motown greats like the Supremes and Four Tops got their start.

Motown Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

While much has been done in Detroit, challenges remain. In the 1950s, the population was close to two million, down to about 700,000 now. More than 40 percent of the city’s 140 square miles is vacant land with 80,000 abandoned homes. “That’s the reality of a city that loses its tax base and its population,” says Rusinow. “What we do with it, how we go forward with purpose to bring quality of life back to our neighborhoods and our residents, to rebuild smart, to become a city that is desirable and affordable for everybody, is our goal.”




Saba: ‘The Unspoiled Queen’

View of Mt. Scenery. Photo by Richard Varr

Elephant ear leaves. Photo by Richard Varr

Taxi driver and tour guide Donna Cain whisks me along Saba’s main road as it weaves up the lush green hillsides and cuts through valleys sheltering the island’s main towns of Windwardside and The Bottom, each dotted with red-roofed white cottages. I see tree ferns, hanging orchids and giant elephant ear leaves along the way as we pass hiking paths leading up to the island’s central peak, 2,910-foot-high Mt. Scenery, the highest point in the Netherlands. With each stop, Donna calls everyone she meets by first name. And it doesn’t take long for me to realize why this small mountainous island of only five square miles is called “The Unspoiled Queen.”

View of The Bottom. Photo by Richard Varr

“If you’re a partier, this is not the spot,” Donna tells me during my island tour. “It’s beautiful, quiet and peaceful. For just total relaxation and unwinding, Saba is the best spot in the world.”

Mt. Scenery. Photo by Richard Varr

Along with neighboring St. Eustatius and St. Maarten, Saba is part of the Dutch West Indies. But unlike St. Maarten, you won’t find sprawling hotel resorts along white sand beaches. Saba is a community of only 2,000 or so friendly residents, like a small town, where everyone knows everyone. Crime is rare. Hotels are small, welcoming and with a personal touch, often housed in villas or cottages. There are no hotel or restaurant chains. Streets are quiet with hardly a traffic jam and not one traffic light.

Airport with short runway. Photo by Richard Varr

Diving, Hiking and an Unforgettable Landing

To many, arriving on Saba might be a touch harrowing as its airport has one of the shortest commercial runways in the world – about 1300 feet, the length of an aircraft carrier. Actually, it’s quite safe as the pilots of Winair land their twin-prop planes there several times a day with remarkable ease. When I landed, the aircraft’s incredible braking power kicked in, stopping the plane maybe halfway or more down the short runway. The landing is certainly worthy of the T-shirt I found at one shop in The Bottom, the island’s seat of government, reading “I survived the Saba landing.”

Hiking up to Mt. Scenery. Photo by Richard Varr

The Ladder. Photo by Richard Varr

Because of Saba’s dramatic waterside cliffs and rocky shoreline, there’s hardly a beach to be seen. But a national marine park with excellent diving spots surrounds the island, luring divers and snorkelers. Hikers also flock here as there are a dozen or more trails cutting through the countryside, some connecting Windwardside to The Bottom, while others ascend Mt. Scenery. One northern trail leads to old sulfur mines. A challenging hike is The Ladder, a 400-step stairwell once used to haul up every piece of clothing, furniture, food and medicine from the island’s first port at Ladder Bay to The Bottom. The rewards of the hike down are great ocean views, but hikers are then faced with the arduous climb back up.

Hiking the Tide Polls. Photo by Richard Varr

I opt for the unique Tide Pools hike, stepping on jagged igneous rock ledges along the shoreline. This moonscape was formed over the millennia as surf pounded and formed deep pockets and gullies in the rocks. “When you hike the Tide Pools, watch out for wet rocks,” warns James Franklin Johnson, my tour guide who is proud of his pirate ancestry dating back eight generations. “Just don’t get too close. If there’s a sudden wave, you can get swept out.”

Harry L. Johnson Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

Windwardside courtyard. Photo by Richard Varr

Windwardside highlights include the Harry L. Johnson Museum housed in a 19th century cottage. Once the home of a sea captain, the museum includes period furniture, photos depicting Saba’s recent history and traditional Saba lacework. The Dutch Museum has blue Delft tiles, 18th century paintings and a remarkable collection of 17th-18th century books and bibles. In The Bottom, the Saba Artisan Foundation features Saba lacework sewn by local women who are continuing the tradition, hand-screened linens, and original Saba liquors made with rum and spices. Saba has many excellent restaurants serving up everything from Caribbean and Dutch dishes to fine French cuisine and other international flavors.

Saba Lace Ladies. Photo by Richard Varr

View of Windwardside. Photo by Richard Varr

Wakeup Call, Saban Style

During my stay in Windwardside, I heard a horn bellow every morning – a wakeup call of sorts, sounding off maybe five or six times in a row at the crack dawn. I soon learned local resident Percy ten Holt blows his conch shell at 6 a.m. sharp from his home on a hillside overlooking the town. Before leaving Saba, I was able to interview Percy and videotape him blowing the conch shell.

Percy ten Holt blowing his conch shell, overlooking Windwardside. Photo by Richard Varr

“I do it because it’s a tradition on Saba,” he told me, admitting he got in trouble with neighbors when he first started blowing. But now it’s something all of Windwardside seems to expect. “I’ve been doing it for 34 years and I feel proud doing it,” he said. Click on the link below for my video clip of him blowing the conch shell and explaining why he does it every morning, except Sundays.

Cottage Club cottages with views of Mt. Scenery. Photo by Richard Varr

Convent Cottage. Photo by Richard Varr


While on the island, I was a guest at the Cottage Club Hotel with its spacious rooms in individual cottages, each with its own kitchen area. A luxury villa rental, Convent Cottage is a two-bedroom, old-style Saban house in Windwardside. The property has been recently restored and is furnished with antiques and artworks.

For more information




Donna Cain, TAXI   dlcsaba@hotmail.com

St. Eustatius: Small in Size, Big in History

St. Eustatius with a view of The Quill from Signal Hill. Photo by Richard Varr

For such a small island, St. Eustatius, also called Statia, packs an enormous colonial legacy. “Statia was the international trade center of the Western Hemisphere,” says local historian Roland Lopes as he leads me on a tour of this Dutch island of eight square miles and with a population of over 3,000. “What really put it on the map was the Dutch West India Company.” Adding to the legacy, island rule changed hands 22 times between the Dutch, English, French and Spanish before the Dutch wrested final control starting in 1816.

Fort Oranje. Photo by Richard Varr

In the 17th and 18th centuries, St. Eustatius was known as “The Golden Rock” because it was one of the Caribbean’s busiest ports. Arriving ships carried cargos including cotton, sugar, ammunition and slaves from throughout the Caribbean and beyond. At its peak, more than 3,000 ships anchored in its harbor each year during the mid to late 18th century.

Honen Dalim walls. Photo by Richard Varr

Walls and tower of Dutch Reformed Church. Photo by Richard Varr

Dutch Reformed Church tower. Photo by Richard Varr

Today, a walk through the center of the capital Oranjestad, with some of the oldest preserved colonial buildings in the Western Hemisphere, is a history lesson within itself. The remarkably intact structures include the restored Fort Oranje dating back to 1729 with its central courtyard and cannons. The brick-walled, roofless Honen Dalim Synagogue from 1739 is the New World’s second oldest. Also with no roof is the mid-18th century Dutch Reformed Church with its well-preserved walls and tower. The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum in an old merchant’s home showcases the island’s past with documents, paintings and artifacts.

St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

One of Statia’s most noted historical events is linked to the American Revolutionary War when the American warship Andrew Doria shot off a 13-gun salute on November 16, 1776. The cannon fire from the offshore warship was to celebrate the 13 Colonies claim of independence. Statia was the first nation to recognize the fledgling country by firing back an 11-gun salute. But England soon retaliated for that event, again seizing control of the island. It wasn’t until 1939 when President Franklin D. Roosevelt presented a plaque thanking St. Eustatius for the bold show of support.

Lower Town as seen from the Upper Town. Photo by Richard Varr

Oranjestad’s historical center is located atop a cliff in the Upper Town, while the Lower Town skirts the rocky shore where stone ruins of old warehouses and homes still protrude along dark sand beaches. Today, waterfront restaurants and cafes make the Lower Town a popular spot for visitors and divers. Like neighboring Saba, St. Eustatius is surrounded by a national marine park with a few dozen or more excellent diving sights, including shipwrecks from the island’s long maritime history. Because of its size, Statia also has a very friendly small town feel where everyone seems to know everyone.

Lower Town. Photo by Richard Varr

Lower Town’s ruins along the beach. Photo by Richard Varr

Many come to Statia to hike the Quill, a 1,968-foot-high extinct volcano with a crater. One of several hikes within Quill National Park, the Crater Trail dips into a rainforest with towering Silk Cotton and Yellow Plum trees. Other hikes include a steep climb up Signal Hill in the center of the island, and up hills in Boven National Park along northern shores.

Two cannons of Fort de Windt. Photo by Richard Varr

Another highlight is Fort de Windt on Statia’s southernmost edge. Actually a battery with two cannons, it was one of the many forts and batteries that once ringed the island. I was lucky enough to visit on a clear day with calm seas for its magnificent ocean view of St. Kitts, just seven miles away. “You could walk on the water to get there,” says Roland with a smile.

Fort Oranje entrance. Photo by Richard Varr

“Statia is a unique and quiet island,” says Dihiara Pierre with Island Essence, a local travel consulting agency. “We hope it stays like that. You can go to bed and leave your doors and vehicles unlocked. It’s still safe. So we invite people to come and experience that peace, tranquility and relaxation we have on Statia.”


Papaya Inn. Photo by Richard Varr

During my visit, I stayed at the Papaya Inn, a very small property convenient to the airport. A home-like dwelling with a backyard, it has clean and modern rooms, friendly staff and a terrific breakfast prepared by the owner and staff members.

For more information