Tag Archives: Richard Varr

WELCOME!

Welcome to my blog!

I am a member of the Society of American Travel Writers (SATW).

After four trips in six weeks this spring, and a ton of assignments and commercial work, I’m again finally adding new blog posts from recent travels. The latest is from my April trip to the spectacular scenery of the Four Corners area, including Mesa Verde National Park, Canyon de Chelly, Canyons of the Ancients and of course Monument Valley, traveling mostly in Colorado and Arizona.

I just returned this spring from two trips to Ohio and will soon add blog posts on Cincinnati and Columbus, and from last summer’s trip to Cleveland and the Lake Erie Islands, which I wanted to post in the same grouping.

My updated published clips list with some of my stories from over the years is on the right. To see even more of my published clips, visit my website at http://www.richardvarr.com

Thanks for your continued interest!!

(Header image is my photo from St. Barth, view from the Colombier Lookout.)

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My novel of international intrigue, Warming Up to Murder, is available as an ebook, and in Kindle and Nook formats.  It’s about a TV reporter who finds himself chasing the “big story” spanning two continents.  See the links below.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/c/richard-varr

http://www.amazon.com/Warming-Up-Murder-Richard-Varr/dp/141344976X

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Four Corners: Monument Valley, Pueblo Ruins and the Wild West

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Monument Valley. Photo by Richard Varr

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Monument Valley, with Three Sisters in the background. Photo by Richard Varr

Crumbling bluffs, sandstone walls and standalone mesa tops set the scene of one of the country’s most incredible natural panoramas. I’m describing the monolithic structures of Monument Valley, straddling the Arizona and Utah border, used as dramatic backdrops in many old Western movie sets and now one of the most popular places to visit in the Four Corners.

Monument Valley. Photo by Richard Varr

Monument Valley. Photo by Richard Varr

Last month’s trip was my first visit to the area and I was particularly impressed with the views at sunset, as rock spires and cliff sides slowly started to glow with earthen red tones with the waning sunlight. Looking closely at the rocks – with maybe just a bit of imagination – I could see faces of sorts and figurines standing side by side, formed by shifting shadows embellishing mother nature’s fierce erosion of the rocks over millions of years.

Monument Valley with Three Sisters Monument. Photo by Richard Varr

Some of Monument Valley’s most notable buttes include King on His Throne with its pillars creating such an image; East Mitten and West Mitten, looking like hands with protruding thumbs; and the so-called Three Sisters spires, looking like three Catholic Nuns and forming the letter “W.”

Monument Valley. Photo by Richard Varr

They all have been seen in the old westerns since the 1930s, when the first movie, Stagecoach was filmed by director John Ford and starred John Wayne. The 18-foot diameter summit of the slender pillar known as Totem Pole was used in the 1975 movie Eiger Sanction starring Clint Eastwood, and so-called Forrest Gump Hill was the setting in the movie scene where he gives up his running and concedes, “I’m too tired, I think I’ll go home now.”

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, CO. Photo by Richard Varr

The Four Corners area was once dominated by the Ancestral Puebloan culture from about 750-1300 A.D. Today, many of their extremely well-preserved cliffside multi-story ruins remain, now protected in national parks including Colorado’s sprawling Mesa Verde with some of the most impressive cliffside dwellings including the round and square towers of Cliff Palace.

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, CO. Photo by Richard Varr

“It took three generations about 80 years to build Cliff Palace the way we see it today,” says Ranger and Interpreter Stanley Merritt. “Children laughing, people singing, running and the noise of stone against stone as they worked their tools,” he continues, describing a typical day on the site about 800 years ago. Other Mesa Verde ruins include the four-story Square Tower House, Balcony House which can only be reached by climbing long ladders, and Spruce Tree House reached by hiking from the park’s Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum.

Square Tower House, Mesa Verde National Park, CO. Photo by Richard Varr

The Puebloans were primarily farmers, growing their crops atop the mesas near their canyon homes. Ruins also sit within canyon walls of Colorado’s Hovenweep National Monument. Part of six villages dating back to 1200-1300 A.D, the remaining walls were once multistory square and circular towers, and D-shaped homes and rounded dug-out kivas, where ceremonies took place.

Pueblo ruins at Hovenweep National Monument, CO. Photo by Richard Varr

“At night, they would gather in their homes or in the kiva for community activities,” explains Sierra Coon, Hovenweep’s Chief of Interpretation. “One thing that certainly struck me is the silence. You can hear the wind in the sage and it’s just a more personal experience because it’s not as busy as other sites. So you almost feel like you have it to yourself.”

Overlook at Navajo National Monument, AZ. Photo by Richard Varr

Canyon de Chelly, AZ. Twin spires at Spider Rock Lookout. Photo by Richard Varr

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Kiva at Lowry Pueblo, Canyons of the Ancients, CO. Photo by Richard Varr

Other sites to visit include Arizona’s Navajo National Monument with three Pueblo ruins and Colorado’s Canyon of the Ancients with the massive kiva at Lowry Pueblo. Arizona’s impressive Canyon de Chelly has the breathtaking view of twin spires shooting up from the canyon floor, known as Spider Rock. The name comes from a Navajo legend of a Spider Woman living atop the rock who would crawl down and seize naughty children. And, it was fun trying to straddle four states (AZ, CO, NM and UT) at the Four Corners Monument.

Four Corners Monument. Photo by Richard Varr

Wild West photo props, Mancos. Photo by Richard Varr

Mancos Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

Artisan with Navajo rug, Mancos. Photo by Richard Varr

For a touch of the Wild West, I visited the small scenic town of Mancos, CO with one traffic light and century-old buildings now home to art galleries, shops and restaurants. Inside the Mancos museum are 1890s wedding dresses, old mining gear and century-old bank notes.

Train Depot, Durango. Photo by Richard Varr

The famous Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, with its old steam locomotives that spew smoke as they slowly chug on roundtrips from May through October, is based in Durango at an old train depot. “We have seven locomotives in their 90s that run just as hard as they did when they were brand new,” says Jeff Ellingson, curator of the railroad’s museum adjacent to the depot.

Strater Hotel, Durango. Photo by Richard Varr

Durango still has its cowboy roots, but old hippies and progressive Millennials have set the tone for this town as well. It’s worth stopping in to see the Victorian-style 1887 Strater Hotel with its Prohibition cubby holes to hide liquor, and the 1892 Rochester Hotel with its original movie posters of old and contemporary westerns filmed in the Four Corners area, including Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and City Slickers, to name only a few.

Inside the Victorian-style Strater Hotel, Durango. Photo by Richard Varr

“Hollywood made a lot of movies about what the Wild West was like,” says Ellingson, “but Durango’s the real thing. We don’t have to fake it here.”

Historic Barbados: A Rich Colonial Legacy…

View from Cherry Tree Hill. Photo by Richard Varr

… and George Washington Slept Here Too

George Washington House. Photo by Richard Varr

By Richard Varr

Colonial Dinner at the George Washington House. Photo by Richard Varr

Candlelight flickered on a rainy evening when more than 30 of us sat down in Barbados’ George Washington House for a true colonial dinner. On the menu: mahi-mahi yam pie with plantains, and lamb stew with pearl barley and sweet potatoes – something George Washington may have dined on during his 1751 visit to Barbados. At 19, the future Founding Father and first U.S. president traveled to Barbados with his brother Lawrence who sought the warm climate while suffering from tuberculosis. The highlight of the dinner was local historian, Dr. Karl Watson, costumed as an older Washington with insight into his stay at the home.

Dr. Karl Watson as George Washington. Photo by Richard Varr

George Washington statue

For example, few may know that Washington contracted smallpox while in Barbados and was confined to his room for three weeks. Can anyone imagine what the U.S. would be like today if Washington succumbed to the disease? The refurbished 1715 house is one of the island’s oldest, where Washington stayed for two months. His bedroom remains with period furniture including an 18th century chest and dressing table. Upstairs is a museum which tells the story of his time on Barbados, the only location Washington visited outside of Colonial America.

Lawrence Washington’s bedroom. Photo by Richard Varr

George Washington’s room in the George Washington House. Photo by Richard Varr

Nelson Statue, Bridgetown. Photo by Richard Varr

A stroll through Barbados’ capital Bridgetown reveals its rich colonial history. The castle-like towers rise above the House of Parliament, established in 1639 and the third oldest in the British Commonwealth. Across the street sits a statue of British Admiral Horatio Nelson – 30 years older than a similar statue in London’s Trafalgar Square. Founded in 1654, the Bridgetown Synagogue is one of the oldest in the Western Hemisphere. And built in 1665, St. Michael’s Cathedral still has an original baptism font that survived the hurricane of 1780 and original mahogany pews added in 1789.

Nidḥe Israel Synagogue, Bridgetown. Photo by Richard Varr

Historic Garrison area. Photo by Richard Varr

Grave of man wishing to be buried standing up in St. John’s Parish Church cemetery. Photo by Richard Varr

Just on the outskirts of the capital in Hastings is the Historic Garrison area. This is home to the Barbados Museum and Historical Society occupying an original 19th century military prison, and the restored George Washington House. Other historic sites around the island include the Morgan Lewis Windmill, Codrington College with its impressive royal palm trees and hilltop view, and old parish churches and cemeteries including one where a local official was buried standing up – at his request – to always look out to the sea.

Grounds of Codrington College. Photo by Richard Varr

Morgan Lewis Windmill. Photo by Richard Varr

St. Nicholas Abbey great house. Photo by Richard Varr

Inside St. Nicholas Abbey great house. Photo by Richard Varr

And there’s the grandiose plantation home, St. Nicholas Abbey. Walking through its lavish interior is like reliving moments in the 18th century, when sugarcane ruled the islands. With fine furniture, china and silver pieces, St. Nicholas’ Jacobean great house showcases the luxurious lifestyle of colonial plantation owners, and with Dutch gables and coral stone finials, it’s the oldest building on Barbados. The plantation still has an old sugar factory, windmill and working rum distillery. A tourist railroad from St. Nicholas Abbey leads to nearby Cherry Tree Hill, offering the best island views.

Inside St. Nicholas Abbey great house. Photo by Richard Varr

Traveling around the island makes it easy to enjoy its beauty and easy lifestyle – hilly terrain with palm and banana trees, and carpeted with bountiful fields of sugarcane.  Sheep and goats grazing within lush green pastures, refreshing trade winds, fishing boats and both rocky and soft-sand beaches also help frame this peaceful Caribbean paradise.

My view from the Barbados Hilton. Photo by Richard Varr

Inside Kensington Oval. Photo by Richard Varr

Cricket: My Chance to Play

Vasbert Drakes during our cricket lesson. Photo by Richard Varr

I’ve always loved baseball since I was a little leaguer. And since learning about cricket, I always wondered what it would be like to play the sport which, with bat and ball, is very similar to our favorite American pastime.On Barbados, I got my chance to find out as I joined a tour for a complete experience of the rich heritage and culture of this game so popular in Barbados and the Caribbean. I visited the Cricket Hall of Fame and learned about the island’s strong cricket history. I did get a chance at bat and learned you have to approach the ball for the best swing – unlike baseball where the batter must remain in the batter’s box.

Cricket legends Desmond Haynes and Vasbert Drakes. Photo by Richard Varr

Outside Kensington Oval. Photo by Richard Varr

I also met two cricket legends including Desmond Haynes and Vasbert Drakes, who instructed our group on how to play the game. We also visited Kensington Oval, the Yankee Stadium of Barbados.

Antigua Sparkles in the Caribbean Sun

Antigua’s Shirley Heights: View of a Lifetime Overlooking Historic Nelson’s Dockyard

Antigua: the view from Shirley Heights. Photo by Richard Varr

It takes only a moment to recognize the beauty on Antigua, especially if you’re looking at the stunning view from the Shirley Heights lookout. I see a crescent-moon beach with sailboats bobbing in gentle harbors. From up here, a central elongated island looks like an alligator with its long back and protruding jaw. And in the distance, clouds seem to dip down and seemingly touch the peaks of a hilly and mountainous panorama.

Photo by Richard Varr

The jagged, curving and twisting shorelines in view actually shelter Nelson’s Dockyard, the world’s only Georgian-era dockyard still in use. Royal Navy ships were once berthed within the harbors of this historic site dating back to the early 18th century. English naval legends once stationed there included Horatio Nelson and Prince William Henry who was later crowned King William IV. The dockyard includes nearby forts, hiking trails, a restaurant/hotel complex, and the Dockyard Museum.

Sail loft pillars, Nelson’s Dockyard. Photo by Richard Varr

Dockyard Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

The original sail loft pillars – columns that once supported a structure atop them used to repair sails of 18th century ships – remain today. Ships would dock inside a narrow channel and the sails would be raised into the above building through a trap door into the building to be repaired.

Richard at the wheel, ready to sail from Nelson’s Dockyard.

Betty’s Hope windmill. Photo by Richard Varr

Betty’s Hope, Devil’s Bridge and Swimming with Stingrays

A fully intact windmill that once squeezed sugarcane stalks remains on the grounds of a historic Antigua plantation. Called Betty’s Hope, the plantation got its name when Christopher Codrington, later Captain General of the Leeward Islands, bought the land in 1674 and named it after his daughter. Today, ruins remain and a small museum includes actual artifacts – forks, pottery, horseshoes and more.

Devil’s Bridge. Photo by Richard Varr

Devil’s Bridge sprayed by a wave. Photo by Richard Varr

I also visited Devil’s Bridge, an arched limestone formation with blowholes shaped by crashing waves, all within a national park. It’s a natural bridge of sorts, passing over eroded shoreline. I dare not walk on it, however, as crashing waves spewing water could knock me over, with the spray making rocks slippery.

Stunning Turners Beach. Photo by Richard Varr

Pineapple Beach Club resort. Photo by Richard Varr

Other sights to see on Antigua include port of call St. George, with highlights including Heritage Quay, a shopaholic’s paradise; the dual-towered Anglican Cathedral dating back to 1681; the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda with artifacts ranging from 34 million year old fossils to an Arawak canoe; and Redcliffe Quay with its 19th century buildings and art galleries. Fig Tree Drive carves through a rainforest where there are no figs but instead banana and mango trees, and 1,319-foot-high Mt. Obama is also in the rainforest. Harmony Hall is an art gallery and restaurant within the great house of a former plantation.

Swimming with Stingrays. Photo by Richard Varr

Finally I had a chance to swim with stingrays, hopping on a boat to reach a shallow spot far out along the shoreline. The stingrays know that when the people come, they’ll be fed! They were gentle and swam alongside us, but after they were fed, they left. It was a great experience!

Swimming with stingrays. Photo by Richard Varr

Leipzig Aglow with the Annual Festival of Lights

Photo by Richard Varr

The 1989 Peaceful Revolution celebrated every October 9th

By Richard Varr

They knew freedom would come one day – all they had to do was stand up for it. And on October 9, 1989, they did – defiantly, peacefully. But it was the sheer numbers of protesters that would determine their destiny as they would soon see Communist rule crumble into the history books.

Crowds in Augustusplatz gather for the Festival of Lights, Oct. 9, 2018. Photo by Richard Varr

Every October 9th, on the anniversary of the Peaceful Revolution, Leipzig citizens celebrate how prayers and a yearning to be free brought out a surging crowd – virtually overnight – of more than 70,000 who demanded democracy. Back then, they stood with candles in hand, not knowing whether police would fire upon them. They chanted over and over again, “We are the people” and “No violence” as they marched around Leipzig’s inner-city ring road. And the march remained peaceful because holding candles prevented protesters from throwing stones.

Thousands of candles illuminate the Festival of Lights. Photo by Richard Varr

They demonstrated against East Germany’s oppressive GDR government, the feared Stasi (Secret Police) and Communist rule. Despite threats of police gunfire to quash the rebellion, the overwhelming crowds made it impossible for police to imprison the tens-of-thousands. The Berlin Wall tumbled a month later.

Augustusplatz, October 9, 2018. Photo by Richard Varr

During my visit to Leipzig earlier this month, I took part in the so-called Festival of Lights, held every October 9th, commemorating the Peaceful Revolution. Citizens come together at nightfall, again cradling candles where it all took place – in central Augustusplatz, and earlier in the imposing Romanesque and Gothic St. Nicholas Church, where Monday prayer meetings beginning in 1982 would spawn a revolution seven years later.

An all women orchestra performs in this year’s Festival of Lights. Photo by Richard Varr

This year’s anniversary paid tribute to women for their role during the rebellion. An all-women orchestra performed amidst the chanting of five actresses recalling the hardships they suffered. “Of course we were intimidated,” the actresses shouted as the music reached a crescendo, looking out upon the candlelit panorama beneath illuminated City Tower windows synchronized to display “89.” “We knew of people suddenly disappearing, of children who had to be adopted because their parents were under arrest.”

Five actresses on stage alongside the orchestra. Photo by Richard Varr

“Sometimes, I had downright nightmares about the Stasi attacking our home at night and taking me with them, just as it happened to my father at his workplace in 1952,” one chanted.

St. Nicholas Church.

Key to each anniversary is the Speech on Democracy at St. Nicholas Church. This year’s speaker – in keeping with the tribute to women theme – was former Federal Minister of Justice Herta Däubler-Gmelin, the first woman to give the speech. “Today is a day of remembrance, with our thoughts looking forward. I am thankful to be a part of it,” she said within the packed church. “I think we should state clearly and with more self-confidence what we expect from politics and politicians, and then add what we citizens ourselves could and must do – more and better.”

Single column outside St. Nicholas Church. Photo by Richard Varr

St. Nicholas is one of the sights of the Peaceful Revolution, where Monday prayer meetings swelled in the fall of 1989 as calls to end Communism echoed throughout Eastern Europe, culminating in Leipzig with the October 9th demonstration. In the adjacent courtyard stands a single column –a replica of the church’s inside columns with their sprouting palm fronds design. The outside pillar and a bronze plaque with footprints below symbolize the thousands of people who couldn’t get into the church and who marched during the Peaceful Revolution.

Inside beautiful St. Nicholas Church. Photo by Richard Varr

Another important sight is the former Stasi headquarters building, now a museum, at the so-called Round Corner. “The situation was really dangerous,” local historian and tour guide Theresa Hertrich told me during a tour. “Would the Stasi in the headquarters shoot the people as they walked by? So the people put candles on the stairs so they could show they were peaceful.”

Bugging/recording devices inside the Stasi Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

The museum showcases the Staci’s oppressive methods and spying tactics. One exhibit reveals the Secret Police had about 2,400 employees and 10,000 “unofficial” employees who spied on fellow citizens. “Many worked every day in factories with colleagues and reported any anti-government talk. That’s how the Stasi collected information on citizens,” explains Hertrich.

“People had to have two faces – a private face, and one official face if you talked to people you didn’t know. Because it was really dangerous to say out loud what you were thinking.” Other museum exhibits include bugging devices, a recreated detention cell and a steam-driven machine used to open envelopes of private letters. Yet another sensational exhibit revealed how the police would question suspected citizens for hours in hot interrogation rooms, and then collect their scents from perspiration on a cloth they sat on, so specially trained dogs could later track them down.

Madler Passage. Photo by Richard Varr

Under the GDR, buildings decayed and the environment suffered. “In the 70s, you could still see the charm of Leipzig, but at the end of the 80s there was nothing anymore. Nothing was renovated,” said tour guide Birgit Scheffel while we sipped coffee within Leipzig’s famous Madler Passage, one of the city’s many passageways lined with retail shops cutting through city blocks. Scheffel explained that after German East-West reunification, shops, malls and department stores sprung up where there was once rubble and empty space.

Augustusplatz, October 9, 2018. Photo by Richard Varr

“In my family, we did not starve. We had basic food,” she said when describing day to day life during GDR rule. “But if you wanted something special like oranges and bananas, we could only get those once a year.”

“We had to wait 15-18 years for a car,” she added. “We had to wait for a normal telephone up to 20 years.”

Recreated living area inside the N’Ostalgie Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

Leipzig’s N’Ostalgie Museum adds yet another dimension of daily life under Communist rule. On display are old scooters, kitchen utensils, toys, old film cameras, bicycles and even a Trabi car, to name just a few of the everyday items mostly made in East Germany. Yet there are no signs or explanations of these items in the museum because those who lived during that era know what they are.

Trabi car inside the N’Ostalgie Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

“Most GDR museums are about the Stasi or the Wall,” noted museum owner Nancy Hager. “It’s very interesting for German people, both West and East, to have a place that’s neutral and not political. Many people that lived then had their own personal memories that were not political.”

Market Square. Photo by Richard Varr

“Sure, there were many citizens who didn’t care – absorbed by their daily life,” said Gisela Kallenbach, a former Leipzig City Council woman and former member of both the Saxony State Parliament and European Parliament. “Many were resigned to the fact they couldn’t change anything because we had the wall – like an open prison in the GDR. For myself, I’m convinced that if you suffer, you have to make changes.”

Augustusplatz, October 9, 2018. Photo by Richard Varr

I’m hoping I can make it back to Leipzig for next year’s 30th anniversary of the Peaceful Revolution – an event that, just like the 25th anniversary in 2014, will draw even larger crowds and a march along the inner-city ring road.

“We started to become braver citizens back then,” recalls Kallenbach. “It’s still as if it happened yesterday.”

Leipzig, Germany’s Festival of Lights: Candlelight, Feminism and Remembrance

Thousands of candles illuminate the Festival of Lights. Photo by Richard Varr

On this year’s 29th anniversary of Leipzig’s Peaceful Revolution, the wind is gentle; the feeling, however, powerful and poignant. In my mind, it’s not so much a festival, but instead a remembrance of a bold and courageous stand for the basic freedoms we take for granted today. Thousands hold candles as the more than 70,000 protesters did in 1989 in what was a defiant stand for human rights.

Crowds in Augustusplatz gather for the Festival of Lights. Photo by Richard Varr

Leipzig’s Festival of Lights is an annual event commemorating the city’s October 9, 1989 Peaceful Revolution when Communism began to crumble into history. I was invited by Leipzig Tourism to participate in the festival and write about this year’s anniversary of the historic event. My guest blog is now posted on the Tourist Office’s website.

https://www.leipzig.travel/blog/candlelight-feminism-and-remembrance-festival-of-lights/

I’ll be adding my own posts from my trip this month on this blog in the days ahead!

An all women orchestra and actresses perform in remembrance of the Peaceful Revolution. Photo by Richard Varr

New York City’s 911 Memorial, a Solemn Place

Photo by Richard Varr

Photo by Richard Varr

I hadn’t been back to New York’s World Trade Center site in lower Manhattan for more than 10 years when it was – sad to say – still a hole in the ground, and well before the 911 Memorial was completed. Although it bothers me deeply to think about that tragic day in 2001, I thought it was about time I visit the site once more to see the completed memorial.

Photo by Richard Varr

It didn’t take long to feel the strong sense of sorrow as I walked along the grounds, passing others with hardly a word spoken – an awkward silence is how a local most accurately described it to me. The memorial includes the two pools in the large square footprints where the two towers once stood. Each has 30-foot waterfalls with water further plunging into a deeper center square.

Photo by Richard Varr

The names of the nearly 3,000 victims of that clear September day are inscribed in bronze panels along the perimeters of the two pools. They include not only the workers and first responders who perished in the towers, but also the victims of the Pentagon attack and the four doomed airplanes, including the one that crashed in Shanksville, Pennsylvania. I saw pristine white and deep red roses wedged into some of the engraved names, later learning that victims get a rose on their birthdays.

911 Memorial Museum. Photo by Richard Varr

To one side of the grounds is the 911 Memorial Museum housed in a multi-sided, modern glass building. I just couldn’t bring myself to enter the museum. Like most of us, I watched coverage of the horrific event for three days and simply found it hard to relive it all by seeing the crushed and burned artifacts, including the recovered personal items from many of the victims.

Freedom Tower. Photo by Richard Varr

On a brighter note, I loved standing under the Freedom Tower with its twisting glass sides – a symbol of hope, recovery and resilience. As a native New Yorker, it was uplifting to see. Also on the site is the new World Trade Center Mall opened in 2016, with a sprawling white 160-foot-high “Oculus” design shaped to signify a dove being released.

Mall outer design. “Photo by Richard Varr

And a side note… adjacent to the 911 Memorial site is St. Paul’s Chapel of Trinity Church, dating back to 1766. The church today looks the same as I recall it years ago – seemingly untouched – having survived the devastation of September 11, 2001.

St. Paul’s Chapel. Photo by Richard Varr